Last of the WTUs: Western Oz & Japan
Had some stick lately for not posting any shots from Western Australia. Truth be known, we didn’t stop to take that many – we were doing so much danged driving (and trying to shoe-horn in as many last ditch activities as possible before we came home) that by the end of each day all we could think about was Bundaberg Red and a dip in an ancient rock pool. But, in the interests of completeness…
We started our epic final leg in this unfathomably massive place by picking up a converted Toyota Hiace in Fremantle and headed for the Great Western Highway. Mile-for-mile, this is the single-most boring stretch of tarmac on Earth. Passing Cervantes, Pinnacles, Geraldstown and Monkey Mia, we eventually arrived in Exmouth, 1500 kms later, where the unending road was temporarily relieved by turquoise waters and the Ningaloo Reef.
The reef is a National Heritage Marine Park in which the Aussie government has licensed a small number of operators to run tours and give tourists the small chance of swimming with the world’s largest fish – whale sharks. And by sheer fluke (you can pay top dollar for puns like that…) we had scheduled this leg during the six-week period when they gather here in droves to feast after the annual coral spawn.
We got to swim with a 5m long beauty called Chompy, a 20-year old male who’d earned his nickname thanks to some Great White savagery, and Claire and I agreed that this was the most privileged thing we’ve ever done. It was like swimming alongside a slow-moving limo. We did get some video from it but, as I’ve not had time to cut it yet, you’ll have to make do with some stills for now…
Here’s a photo I didn’t want to see!
When I loaded up the fully-recyclable/whittled-from-a-single-piece-of-aluminium MacBook this morning, I’d intended for this post to just show my contender for 2009’s Rear of the Year, courtesy of Darcie (one of our nieces).
Then this showed up on the screen.
I didn’t blog about this at the time, but whilst Claire and I were in Honduras, and Claire was eating her delicious breakfast at Georphies, I was busily distancing myself from a moving motorbike and getting a ‘proper’ feel for some wet, Honduran gravel. 10ft or so later, I came to a stop and knew I’d hurt my left wrist pretty badly.
The flesh wound healed, but something’s still not right. So today I wen’ to di doc’s, and di doc say…is broken.
The bad news is, I need to go under the knife and have a bone graft taken from another part of my body. The good news is, it means I’ll be losing a couple of inches from my ass! My Dad thinks I might even be able to fart out of my thumb, which would be nice.
So on hearing this joyous news, my attention immediately turned to my wife. How would I prepare our candlelit suppers, clean the house for her, and iron her clothes?
“You’ll find a way, Mike, you’ll find a way”, I thought, so my mind quickly moved to my photographic commitments. He estimates I’ll need to be in plaster for a total of 8 weeks, and the problem is that I’ve now got 4 confirmed weddings booked for this year, more in the pipe and other cool stuff planned beside – at least one family portrait session in June, more in July, then I’m spending a few quid days in August shooting with this guy in Philadelphia before my wedding bookings kick in.
I COULD leave it to fester, and hope the “95% chance of me getting arthritis in 10 years” doesn’t materialise, but if I square it away then the chances reduce to 5%. The fact that I’m a right hander doesn’t matter – I need both to change a lens, pick-up heavy things (which I’m pretty good at), play golf, read a book, clean a dish, stick a shelf up, do the mowing, drive a car – so I figure the business case is there. Either way, though, apparently I’m never doing press-ups again – unless it’s on my knuckles (sweet!).
So I’m biting the bullet and getting it done. I go in this week.
For the record, I love you all. But Claire’s my favourite…
Oh yeh – here’s the shot of Darcie on Shoreham beach last weekend.
Intergalactic Tour Update: the Milky Way and, erm, New Zealand
For Claire’s birthday, we spent the night star-gazing at the Mount John Observatory on New Zealand’s South Island. The Observatory’s location, in the Mackenzie basin, was chosen because it has very little light pollution and great year-round weather conditions (70% of nights are cloud-free). A decent place to go star-spotting then!
The picture above, however, was taken a couple of km’s away on the shores of Lake Tekapo where the tiny Church of the Good Shepherd stands. After we’d been shown around the night sky by the resident astronomers at the Observatory, we headed back to our camper and I set the big gun up on a tripod in the grounds of the church. It was about 2am when I took this – if you’re interested, I dialed in ISO 6400, f2.8 on my 14-24mm and left the shutter open for 30 seconds. The church is illuminated by the ambient light from the village nearby.
Then Claire waited patiently with me for the following 30 minute exposure. The guy at the observatory had helped me to identify the southern celestial pole (there isn’t a star there like there is in the northern hemisphere, which is known as Polaris). The trails you can see are attributable to the Earth’s rotation during a half-hour period.
The thing we both like most about these shots are that they contain 3 galaxies – our own Milky Way which is clearly identifiable, as well as the two Megellanic Cloud galaxies which you can make out to the right of shot in each photo. There’s an estimated 400 billion stars just in our galaxy and we can only see a fraction of a percent of nearby stars because most aren’t bright enough to reach us. Minds. Blown.
Anyways, astronomy lesson over. Hope you come to terms with it all faster than we did…
Unbelievably, our trip is now nearing its end. We head to the land of the rising sun tomorrow and we’re home in less than a week. So here’s a couple of things to mention before you desert these parts…
1) We’re blogging on… the blog will continue once we’re back home. I’m enjoying doing it too much to stop and I’ve also got some inordinately exciting photo engagements + opportunities lined up that I’m going to be posting the results from. So, if you’re interested, stayed tuned!
2) One of them is some one-on-one mentoring that I’ll be getting from Cliff Mautner. Cliff is a world-class photography veteran with 6000+ assignments to his name and 700+ weddings. He’s Nikon’s Wedding Photographer-in-Chief and, to cap it all off, was just voted one of the world’s top 10 wedding photographers by American Photo. Check out his site, he’s an absolutely amazing photographer and has some beautiful images there http://www.cmphotography.com.
3) As well as commercial portrait & wedding photography work, I’m looking to regularly undertake pro-bono work for good causes. If you are closely linked to any charities or good causes, please hit me up in the comments/send an email to mike {at} north dash room dot com/send them here. Also, if you know of anyone looking for a commercial portrait/wedding photographer, please help to spread the word – the official www.north-room.com website is currently in design!
4) Remember we’re having a few swallies at ours on Saturday 9-May, from 3pm – we’d love to see you all so please come round if you can!
See you soon!
Mike & Claire x
Islabot!
(I had the privilege of keeping Isla amused during our car trips around Sydders. She seemed genuinely taken by my news of Nikon’s new 50mm f1.4 AFS.)
A quick hello from a scorching Western Oz! We’re 1300kms up from Perth (or Fremantle, rather – I think it might be twinned with Hove, actually) and are hoping to spend some time swimming with Whale Sharks tomorrow (Easter Sunday, don’t hate us too much). It’s about 500 degrees centigrade here in Exmouth and Claire is nearing such an extreme shade of red that I’m now wearing Night Vision goggles so I don’t lose her.
This is just a quick segway for anyone who knows Lou & Ru (who kindly put us up, entertained and looked after us during our brief interlude in Sydney – thanks a million guys, was really nice to meet you properly) – and also to show you what their daughter Isla now looks like. This psuedo-photoshoot now holds the record for shortest amount of advance warning (~6 minutes) as well as shortest window to do it (~12 minutes) – despite which we actually managed two wardrobe changes, and that was just for Ru! ;O) Hope you like them L&R, see you when you get back across the pond.
M&C x
More to come…
WTU: Chile & Argentina
Claire and I woke up before the sparrows started stretching for this and it was worth every minute of the bracing cold. We arrived so early that it was still pitch black and we even avoided the Park’s entry fees because security hadn’t woken up. Save for ourselves, there was nobody there.
Whilst we could barely make out the glacier’s form from the small amount of ambient light its icey exterior gave off, we could hear it loud and clear – its perpetual advancing motion provided a back-drop of gunshot-style explosions as the ice cracked and yielded to pressure from the frigid waters of Lake Argentina which it divides. It was so eerie seeing the outline of this humungous wall of ice gradually emerging as day broke, particularly with its unique and arresting soundtrack.
If it wasn’t for us chatting to a french couple, Virginie and Théophile, whom we met at our lodgings in Valparaiso, we almost certainly wouldn’t have gone here. I don’t even think we knew it existed. But they both insisted that it was worth seeing so we took the 28 hour bus journey to do so. Bottom-numbing drive aside, it was absolutely marvelous.
Argentina as a whole was actually wonderful. I have to admit that our potted history with the Argies on the fields of both football and battle presented me with a small number of negative preconceptions about the place but the Argentines were such genuinely nice folk – warm, friendly and thoroughly welcoming. And what a country – the 8th largest on Earth with a huge array of diversity. Winelands, mountains, glaciers, beautiful lakes and waterfalls, even world-class archeology, with the largest collection of dinosaur fossils you can find. Buenos Aires was brilliant too – we tangoed like retards the pros, ate and drank like kings and partied our socks off. We’ll definitely be coming back here, not least because we only really felt like we scratched the surface.
So now we’re in Perth, Western Australia, and are heading to the beach. Neither of us can believe how quickly New Zealand came and went, our campervan escapades there were great and we’ll have some shots from there, as well as our short stay with Lou & Ru, up here soon. Stay tuned…
The Mitchams x
PS – homecoming party at ours on 9-May-09 – everyone welcome. Hit me up on email if you need our address.
WTU: Bolivia
G’day from the spare room of Lou & Ru’s house in Sydney! We arrived here night before last after a 14 hour flight from Buenos Aires and have been spending some quality time with little Isla who is very cute and smiley!
Since our last post we’ve done Argentina, where we dutifully engorged ourselves on mouthwatering steak & lamb and fattened up quite nicely, thanks. Little bit jet lagged at the mo so I’ll dive straight into the fact that this post is dedicated to the Bolivian leg of our trip.
Having spent a few days in La Paz, we headed down to Uyuni and spent three days cruising through its salt lakes and scenery. La Paz was interesting to say the least – actually it was downright bizarre in some ways. We declined the opportunity to take a ‘tour’ of the infamous (self-governing, corrupt) San Pedro prison – some inmates have their wives and children living with them in the cells that they ‘rent’ – and we also passed up the chance to purchase Llama foetuses which the Bolivians bury under new buildings as an offering to the Gods. (Roller – I’ve got you a six-pack…)
But the Salar de Uyuni was possibly the most bizarre of the lot – as the world’s biggest salt flat, it’s a massive expanse of white salt that stretches as far as the eye can see in hexagonal patterns created through water evaporation. It took us three days to cross it and also the mountains that fringe it to finally reach the Chilean border. South America doesn’t do much on a small scale.
Anyhows, here’s some shots of us gooning around there, we’ll have some more from Chile and Argentina up in the next week or two as well.
Hope everyone back home is keeping well – we were dead chuffed to hear Ray, Charls, Susie & Paul’s news of their new nippers, congrats guys, we can’t wait to meet them. And also happy b’day Dad – have a great one mate, we’ll be thinking about you!
Lots of love to everyone else (we continue to cry ourselves to sleep on a nightly basis thinking about you all).
M&C x
all images copyright North Room Photography.
WTU: The Galapagos Islands
Greetings from Puerto Montt! A detour from our envisioned route down south as we were expecting to head straight to Argentina from Bolivia. Instead, we have spent the last week or so in the Atacama Desert – the driest place on Mother Earth – and guess what? It rained! Not much mind, but enough to raise a smile and make us feel slightly hexed.
At this precise moment in time (Monday evening in the UK – bizarrely, we’re only 3 hours behind you) we are half way down the thin but immensely long country of Chile having spent a grand total of 36 hours on buses getting here from the north. Tomorrow we’re finally headed to Argentina’s lake district, though from there our precise bearings are as yet undetermined – the Perito Moreno Glacier in Argentina’s Patagonian south or the Iguazu Waterfalls in its tropical north. Decisions, decisions. Possible coin flippage on this one. Either way, we’re ending up in Buenes Aires for some hot to trot Tango action in a week or so which should be good. Finally Argentina’s capital will have the kind of sweet moves it’s been longing for…
As promised, we now have some shots to show from our brief visit to the achingly wonderful Galapagos Islands, although the short video (contains sound) is a personal favourite – the opening shot of two bull males almost coming to blows is unmissable… I’m expecting a call from National Geographic.
Some shots from Bolivia’s Salar de Uyuni (Salt Lake) to follow in the next week or so, hope everyone is keeping well back home. Again, please keep us posted on your news, it’s so nice hearing from you!
Mike & Claire x
More to come…x
WTU: A bit more on…(Guatemala)
Well, we’re now in La Paz, one of the highest cities in the world at an altitude sickness-inducing 12000ft and as a result we’re soaking up the Coca tea like a pair of addled crackheads! I’m on 6 cups a day, Claire’s getting a few less in principally because she hasn’t managed to pilfer as many old ladies handbags as me!!
We’ve just got back from the Galapagos and this will be our next post in a week or so – we hit Bolivia’s Salt Lakes tomorrow for a four day excursion to see the otherworldly environment this provides – but we can report that Galapagos was absolutely amazing. My only question coming from it was whether us human folk can actually be trusted with it, and I fear for the worst.
We shall write again in a week or so forthwith, but please feast your eyes first on some more of our highlights from our favourite central american hosts.
Buena noche.
Mr & Mrs Gonzo x
More t.c. x
World Tour update: Nicaragua, Honduras (and a bit of Guatemala)
Herein endeth our first month and we’re almost done with Mesoamerica. We’ve just arrived back in Flores, Guatemala, having spent yesterday and this morning walking round the ancient Mayan city of Tikal. (Albeit walking like we were both wearing calipers and looking like we’ve both had accidents in our respective all-weather trousers…).
Since our last post we’ve done some pretty serious mileage. In a nutshell, we’ve moved from Granada in Nicaragua to Ometepe island, survived Managua (the Nicaraguan capital), moved across the border to Tegucigalpa (the Honduran capital), up to the Bay Islands, across to the Mayan city of Copan (awesome), again over the border into Guatemala, stayed in the beautiful city of Antigua, visited the beautiful Lake Atitlan, hiked more than 4000 metres up the side of the absolutely hard as nails Volcano Acatenango (which I think is Spanish for “Stupid english wazzocks, do not bother”), then headed up to where we are now for our last bit of Central American culture and history.
Of the four countries we’ve now visited, Guatemala has to be our favourite. It’s been much easier to access the culture and fabric of the place here than anywhere else we’ve found, and the places that we’ve visited and things we’ve seen have just blown us away. Antigua, for example, is not only the most visually interesting place we’ve been to in its own right, but it also nestles between (count them) THREE volcanos; Agua (to the North), Fuego (to the East), and Acatenango (just South of Fuego) are all clearly visible from the town.
During the days we were there, we were blessed with a number of eruptions of huge plumes of gas and ash from Fuego. And, after a painful 8-hour hike up to Acatenango’s 4km summit, we were also lucky enough to see one up close. As the only crew up there – we were with a German couple, two Dutch girls, two Aussie guys (one in shorts!) and our Canadian guide – we had the run of the place to ourselves and could not believe our eyes when we got up to the top – we were so far above the clouds we felt like we were in space and, right on cue, as the sun went down, Fuego rumbled loudly and spurted out a tonne of hot black ash. After the hardest day since records began, the experience we had up there just blew our minds.
Check out the photos below, hope you are all well and keep us updated with all your news. Lots of love, M&C x
World Tour update: Costa Rrrrrrrrrica!
Am pleased to report that we survived the recent quake in Costa Rica – luckily we missed it by about a week and had moved away from San Jose and into the Guanacaste province. We’re having a blast out here in Central America and the traveling vibe we’d been hoping for has really kicked in here in Nicaragua, where we have been for the last few days. We are currently staying in the lap of luxury – a present to ourselves following a close encounter with muchos cucarachas. Many dead, some very much living. “Scared by the earthquake”, our hotelier told us, “we never normally see them – bat don’t warry, I will fumigeeete” – he said, in his best Speedy Gonzalez voice. Aside from this, and one or two other mishaps on my part:
- Wolfing down a couple of delicious sultana muffins before being informed by my wife that the sultanas were, in fact, lumps of mould
- Spending the next 20 minutes forcing myself to honk over the bano (no burst blood vessels this time)
- Handing Claire some delicious dried pasta shells for dinner which were also mouldy and teeming with flies INSIDE the sealed packet (that I’d bought with the muffins – not my best shopping expedition to date)
…things have gone swimmingly.
We spent a few days at Arenal, one of the world’s ten most ACTIVE volcanos (situated in Costa Rica) which is as awesome as it is colossal, spewing lava out every few minutes and dominating the skyline of the wilderness area of La Zona Norte (Northern CR). Then we moved on to the cloud forest of Monteverde (you can see a shot of Claire zipping through the canopy below) and from here had the bus journey from hell over to the beach on the Nicoya Peninsula – a 9 hour slog-a-thon that had us waiting in the baking heat for 3 hours (for a bus that never came) and standing the rest of the way on a coach driven by the star of Police Camera Action.
The beach was a tad warmer than the weather we’ve heard you guys back home have been having. I used Claire’s face as a barometer and judging by its perma-redness, we were consistently enjoying temperatures in the mid-thirties here.
Having relaxed here for a few days, we plucked up the courage to buy another bus ticket, and luckily this time we hit the jackpot. An old yellow, American school bus with two vacant seats and its own pet puppy, we managed to break-down 12km outside of our destination. Luckily though, without a single health & safety official within a 600 mile radius, we got a PUSH from a friendly Land Rover owner for 2k’s until we reached the area’s high point – from here we free-wheeled for about another 6km where a replacement bus came to get us.
So now we’re in Granada, Nicaragua – the oldest Spanish-founded city in the America’s – and it’s the most beautiful place we’ve encountered to date. Tomorrow we head to market (Claire remains endlessly amused at my hapless but incessant attempts to communicate with the locals in my crap spanglifrancetinglish lingo) and then on to Ometepe – an island created by two conjoined volcanoes in the middle of lake Nicaragua.
Anyway, must dash, we hope you’re all well and we miss you!! (but clearly not enough to come back yet…)
Love M&C (on the veranda at Hotel Alhambra). x
PS – big congrats to Si and Vix on their news and a belated happy new year to everyone at home! And please keep us posted on your news!
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